“Loose masses of rock projected over the edge and we soon began loosening them and watching the fun. The falling stone would gather hundreds of others in its course, and thus the growing avalanche would thunder down the cliff amidst the most deafening reverberations from the cañon walls, till the final crash at the bottom sounded like a cannon shot. We went along the cliff and rolled huge rock masses to our heart’s content. We would all get on the ground behind one, and with one push of the feet send the rock over the cliff sometimes as large as ½ a ton. For two hours we enjoyed this sport and then returned to the summit. Lake started along the cliff to the south, and climbed without difficulty to the summit of one of the great columns on the cliff front. He pushed boulders over the cliff and we could see the white streak of dust and the black masses of stone shooting downwards like rockets, the roar of the fall upon the debris pile coming up only after many seconds.”

Chapter 2

THE MOUNT WHITNEY AREA

The Mount Whitney area begins at Mount Langley and ends above the eastern shore of Wallace Lake. It contains four of the twelve 14,000-foot peaks (Mounts Langley, Muir, Whitney, and Russell) in the Sierra. The Crest itself is the border between Sequoia National Park on the west and the Inyo National Forest on the east. Because Mount Whitney is the highest point in the continental United States, and has a trail all the way to its summit, its environs are the most popular destination in the Sierra. It is the only section of the route where the traveler can expect to routinely find others. The route traverses the following major features in this area: Miter Basin, the summit of Mount Whitney, Arctic Lake Basin, the North Fork of Lone Pine Creek, Tulainyo Lake (the highest lake in the Sierra), and the Wallace Lake Basin.

The first to seriously explore the Sierra Crest in the Mount Whitney area were members of the California Geological Survey, later known as the Whitney Survey. Under the direction of the State Geologist, Josiah Whitney, the Survey’s charge was “to make an accurate and complete Geological Survey” of the state. In July of 1864, members of the field party were camped near the base of Mount Brewer, named for William Brewer, the leader of the survey’s field parties. From the summit of this peak, they observed what they considered to be the “the highest and grandest” group of Sierra peaks. Clarence King, one of the field party members, described the highest of these peaks as “a noble pile of Gothic-finished granite and enamel-like snow. How grand and inviting looked its white form, its untrodden, unknown crest, so high and pure in the clear strong blue! I looked at it as one contemplating the purpose of his life.” Survey members named this peak Mount Whitney.

King would make four attempts to ascend this peak. The first time, in July 1864, he climbed Mount Tyndall, thinking it was Whitney. Later the same month, he made a second attempt, which was stopped by technical difficulties several hundred feet from the top. On his third attempt in 1871, King, by mistake, climbed what was then called Sheep Mountain and would later become known as Mount Langley. In his defense, however, the State Geological Survey map he was using incorrectly placed the name “Mt. Whitney” on the future Mount Langley. On the other hand, however, King was the one who had originally named it Sheep Mountain in 1864. Once he was made aware of his error, King immediately returned and finally completed a successful ascent. Unfortunately for him, though, he discovered that others had been there before him, all within one month of his ascent.

According to John Muir, King’s summit entry read, “Sep. 19th, 1873. This Peak, Mt Whitney was this day climbed by Clarence King, U.S. Geologist & Frank F Knowles of Tule River. On Sep 1st in N.Y. I first learned that the high peak south of here which I climbed in 1871 was not Mt. Whitney & I immediately came here. Clouds & storms prevented me from recognizing this in 1871 or I should have come here then. All honor to those who came here before me. C. King.”

The first ascent, first ascenders, and even the name of the peak were contested issues for some time. However, credit for the first ascent was finally given to “The Fishermen,” Charles Begole, Albert Johnson, and John Lucas on August 18, 1873. Other names given the peak were “Fisherman’s Peak,” “Dome of Inyo,” and “Dome of the Continent.”

John Muir also completed some noteworthy explorations on the Crest Route in this area. Early in the morning of October 25, 1873, he started a hike to Mount Whitney from the town of Independence. He was using the same map as King and ended up, like King, climbing Mount Langley. Muir related, “To the North about 8 miles I saw a higher peak & set off to climb it the same day. I reached the summit needles about 11 oclock that night and danced most of the time until morning as the night was bitterly cold & I was in my shirt sleeves. The stars & the dawn & the sunrise were glorious.” Muir returned to Independence, and started again the next day, and ascended the peak from the east side via the Mountaineer’s Route. In addition to the King entry, Muir found a half dollar with the following inscription, “Notice Gentleman however is the looky finder of this half a Dollar is wellKome to it Carl Rabe Sep 6th 1873.” Muir continued, “Of course I replaced these records as well as Carl Rabe’s ‘half a dollar’ but I did not add my own name—Have never left my name on any mountain, rock or tree in any wilderness I have explored or passed through though I have spent ten Years in the Sierra alone.”

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The Crest Route

From Cottonwood Pass, follow the Crest northwest over the summit of Cirque Peak. Descend, and follow the Crest around the west side of the basin containing High Lake. Cross over New Army Pass, turn north, traverse Army Pass, and ascend the Southeast Slope of Mount Langley. Descend this peak’s North Face, then traverse east through “Tuttle Pass,” the low point between Mount Langley and the pinnacles south of Mount Corcoran. As soon as possible turn north, then east, and ascend a chute that leads to the notch between Mounts Corcoran and LeConte. Leave this chute just before reaching the notch and traverse northwest into the Northwest Chute of Mount LeConte, and ascend it to this peak’s summit. Descend its East Arête, traverse northwest across a large plateau, and then ascend to the summit of Mount Mallory. Descend on or near the Crest to Arc Pass, then ascend Mount McAdie. Descend this peak’s Southwest Chute, located between the north and middle peaks, onto “Crabtree Pass.” Descend until it is possible to turn northwest and follow the Crest to “Discovery Pass,” located just southeast of Discovery Pinnacle, and then traverse northwest to Trail Crest. Remaining near the trail, descend to the John Muir Trail junction, and then ascend north to the summit of Mount Whitney. Hike west along the northern edge of Whitney’s summit plateau until past the Northeast Ridge. Remaining as close as possible to this ridge, descend Whitney’s North Slope into the basin containing Arctic Lake. Follow the Crest northeast then north past “Whitney-Russell Pass” and the low point on the ridge. Ascend north until it is possible to pass east through “Sakai Col,” which leads into the basin containing Upper Boy Scout Lake. Continue east to the Southeast Face of Mount Russell, and then ascend the “Rockwell Variation,” the highest couloir to the north, onto a plateau. Traverse this plateau northeast to the “Russell-Carillon Pass,” the low point between Mounts Russell and Carillon, to the summit of Mount Carillon. Descend this peak’s Northeast Ridge to “Cleaver Col,” the low point between Mount Carillon and “The Cleaver,” then traverse north then northwest above Tulainyo Lake to the summit of Tunnabora Peak. Descend southwest, then, remaining as close to the Crest as possible, traverse west and northwest to a point above the eastern shore of Wallace Lake.

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Mountaineering from the Crest Route

Cirque Peak: South Slope, Northwest Side; Mount Langley: South Slope, Southeast Slope, North Face; The Major General: Northeast Side; Joe Devel Peak: Northwest Ridge; Mount Pickering: Southeast Slope, South Slope, Southwest Ridge; Mount Newcomb: South Ridge from Mount Pickering; Mount Chamberlain: East Ridge from Mount Newcomb; Mount Corcoran: North Notch from the West, Traverse from Mount LeConte; Mount LeConte: Traverse from Mount Corcoran, West Couloir; Mount Mallory: Southeast Slope, From Arc Pass; Mount McAdie: From Arc Pass, Southwest Chute; Discovery Pinnacle: South Slope; Mount Hitchcock: From “Discovery Pass;” Mount Muir: From the John Muir Trail; Crook’s Peak or Keeler Needle: From the John Muir Trail; Mount Whitney: From the John Muir Trail, North Slope; Mount Russell: South Face (Right Side), East Ridge, West Arête; Mount Carillon: Southwest to Southeast Slope; “The Cleaver”: Northwest Ridge; Tunnabora Peak: South Slope, Southwest Slope; “Mount Carl Heller”: West Face.

Alternative Routes

1. Leave the Crest Route at either New Army or Army Pass, and then descend west to a point south of “Soldier Lake,” located southwest of The Major General, and two choices.
   
   Mountaineering Opportunities: Mount Langley: South Slope; The Major General: From Almost Anywhere.
   
   
   1. Ascend north past “Soldier Lake” and into “Mitre Basin.” Continue north to the northeast shore of Sky Blue Lake, and then ascend into the cirque west of Mount Mallory, and two additional opportunities.
      
      Mountaineering Opportunities: The Major General: From Almost Anywhere; Joe Devel Peak: Northwest Ridge; Mount Pickering: South Slope, East Slope; Mount Newcomb: South Ridge, Northeast Ridge; Mount McAdie: Southwest Chute; Mount Mallory: West Slope.
      
      
      1. Ascend east and meet the Crest Route south of Mount Mallory.
         
         Mountaineering Opportunities: Mount LeConte: Northwest Chute; Mount Mallory: Southeast Slope
         
         
      2. Continue north and join the Crest Route at Arc Pass.
         
         Mountaineering Opportunities: Mount Mallory: From Arc Pass; Mount McAdie: From Arc Pass.
         
         
   2. Continue west, cross Rock Creek, then traverse northwest around the base of Joe Devel Peak to Perrin Creek, and three more alternatives.
      
      Mountaineering Opportunities: Joe Devel Peak: Southwest Slope.
      
      
      1. Ascend the Southwest Slope of Joe Devel Peak, and then traverse across the summit of Mount Pickering. Climb the South Ridge of Mount Newcomb, and then descend its Northeast Ridge to the Crest Route at Crabtree Pass.
         
         Mountaineering Opportunities: Mount Pickering: South Ridge, Northeast Ridge; Mount Newcomb: Southeast Ridge, Northeast Ridge; Mount McAdie: Southwest Chute.
         
         
      2. Ascend its South or West Slopes to the summit of Mount Chamberlin then turn northeast and descend to the low point between this peak and Mount Newcomb. Traverse northwest past the Crabtree Lakes, turn north before reaching Crabtree Meadow, then ascend northeast past Guitar and Alpine Lakes to the Crest Route at “Sakai Col.”
         
         Mountaineering Opportunities: Mount Anna Mills: From Almost Anywhere; Mount Guyot: Northeast Ridge; Mount Chamberlin: West Slope, South Slope, East Ridge from Mount Newcomb; Mount Pickering: West Slope; Mount Newcomb: Southwest Slope, Southwest Ridge, South Ridge from Mount Pickering; Mount Hitchcock: Southwest Slope, West Slope; Mount Young: South Slope, East Slope, Traverse from Mount Hale; Mount Hale: South Slope, Traverse from Mount Young; Mount Whitney: West Slope; North Slope.
         
         
      3. Traverse northwest then north around two ridges into Crabtree Meadow. Continue north through Sandy Meadow and over one more ridge to Wallace Creek, and then follow this creek northeast to the Crest Route above the eastern shore of Wallace Lake.
         
         Mountaineering Opportunities: Mount Anna Mills: From Almost Anywhere; Mount Guyot: Northeast Ridge; Mount Chamberlin: South Slope, West Slope; Mount Hitchcock: West Slopes; Mount Young: South Slopes; Mount Hale: Traverse from Mount Young; Mount Barnard: Southwest Slopes; Mount Russell: West Arête, North Arête East Ridge; “Mount Carl Heller”: West Face.
         
         
2. Leave the Crest Route at the summit of Mount Langley, descend its West Face past The Major General into “Miter Basin.” Travel north to the northeast shore of Sky-Blue Lake, and two alternatives.
   
   Mountaineering Opportunities: Mount Langley: West Face; The Major General: From Almost Anywhere; Joe Devel Peak: Northwest Ridge; Mount Pickering: South Slope, East Slope; Mount Corcoran: North Notch; Mount LeConte: West Couloir.
   
   
   1. Ascend the cirque west of Mount Mallory to the Crest Route at Arc Pass.
      
      Mountaineering Opportunities: Mount Mallory: West Slope, Mount McAdie: From Arc Pass; Mount Irvine: From Arc Pass.
      
      
   2. Ascend northwest past Lake 12,129 (3697m), and then climb north to the Crest Route at Crabtree Pass, the low point between Mounts Newcomb and McAdie, and two additional alternative routes.
      
      Mountaineering Opportunities: Mount Newcomb: Northeast Ridge; Mount McAdie: Southwest Chute.
      
      
      1. Leave the Crest Route and traverse northwest to “Discovery Pass” and rejoin the Route.
         
         Mountaineering Opportunities: Discovery Pinnacle: South Slope.
         
         
      2. Leave the Crest Route, traverse west to the Southeast Saddle, located southeast of the summit of Mount Hitchcock, and discover two more possibilities.
         
         Mountaineering Opportunities: Mount Hitchcock: Southeast Saddle; Discovery Pinnacle: South Slope.
         
         
         1. Descend southeast then northeast along the ridge between Mount Hitchcock and Discovery Pinnacle, and rejoin the Crest Route at “Discovery Pass.”
            
            Mountaineering Opportunities: Mount Hitchcock: Southeast Saddle; Discovery Pinnacle: South Slope.
            
            
         2. Descend, and then traverse north between the Hitchcock Lakes to the northeast shore of Guitar Lake, and two additional choices.
            
            
            1. Ascend the West Slope of Mount Whitney and meet the Crest Route at its summit.
               
               Mountaineering Opportunities: Mount Whitney: West Slope.
               
               
            2. Ascend northeast past Arctic Lake to the Crest Route at “Sakai Col.”
               
               Mountaineering Opportunities: Mount Young: South Slope, East Slope, Traverse from Mount Hale; Mount Hale: South Slope, Traverse from Mount Young; Mount Whitney: North Slope.
               
               
3. Leave the Crest Route at Arc Pass, descend north to the north shore of Consultation Lake, and then hike northwest up a chute to the Trail Camp area. Traverse north, keeping to the west of Wotans Throne, then traverse northeast across a cirque to “Pinnacle Pass,” which is located on Pinnacle Ridge to the east of “Pinnacle Pass Needle.” After descending this pass, two options exist.
   
   Mountaineering Opportunities: Mount McAdie: From Arc Pass; Mount Irvine: From Arc Pass; Wotans Throne: South Face, Northwest Arête; Thor Peak: West Arête.
   
   
   1. Ascend northwest to the southern shore of Iceberg Lake and two more options.
      
      
      1. Ascend Mount Whitney’s Mountaineers Route, which begins in the chute west of Iceberg Lake between this peak’s East Buttress and Northeast Ridge. At the notch at the top of this chute, descend a short distance, then turn generally south and ascend a chute to the Crest Route on the summit plateau of Mount Whitney a short distance west of the summit.
         
         Mountaineering Opportunities: Mount Whitney: Mountaineers Route.
         
         
      2. Continue northwest to the Crest Route at the “Whitney-Russell Pass,” the notch at the base of the Northeast Ridge of Mount Whitney.
         
         Mountaineering Opportunities: Mount Whitney: North Slope.
         
         
   2. Descend northeast past a tarn, and then traverse north past the eastern shore of Upper Boy Scout Lake. Ascend north then northwest onto a plateau and meet the Crest Route at the summit of Mount Carillon.
      
      Mountaineering Opportunities: Mount Russell: East Ridge, Mount Carillon: South Slope.
      
      
4. Leave the Crest Route where it turns northwest towards Discovery Pinnacle, just north of Crabtree Pass. Ascend north through Whitney Pass, located northwest of the twin pinnacles at the head of the Crabtree Lakes basin, and then traverse north, keeping to the west of Wotans Throne. Turn northeast and traverse across a cirque, then cross “Pinnacle Pass,” which is located on Pinnacle Ridge to the east of “Pinnacle Pass Needle.” Traverse north to Upper Boy Scout Lake, then northwest to the Crest Route at the “Rockwell Variation,” the highest chute located at the base of the Southeast Face of Mount Russell.
   
   Mountaineering Opportunities: Wotans Throne: South Face, Northwest Arête; Thor Peak: West Arête.
   
   
5. Leave the Crest Route at Trail Crest by descending northeast via the broad chute on the east side of the Crest to the west side of Wotans Throne. Turn northeast and traverse across a cirque, then cross “Pinnacle Pass,” which is located on Pinnacle Ridge to the east of “Pinnacle Pass Needle.” Traverse north to Upper Boy Scout Lake, then northwest to the Crest Route at the “Rockwell Variation,” the highest chute at the base of the Southeast Face of Mount Russell.
   
   Mountaineering Opportunities: Wotans Throne: South Face, Northwest Arête; Thor Peak: West Arête.

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Alternative Approaches or Escape Routes

Cottonwood Lakes—From Lone Pine, follow the Whitney Portal Road 3+ miles to the Horseshoe Meadows Road. Follow this road 20+ miles, then turn right at the Cottonwood Lakes junction, and follow this road to the trailhead.
Follow the Cottonwood Lakes/New Army Pass Trail to a junction northwest of Golden Trout Camp. There are two choices from there.

1. Take the left fork, cross Cottonwood Creek, and then follow the trail past the southern shores of Cottonwood Lakes #1 and #2, Long Lake, and High Lake to the Crest Route at New Army Pass.
   
   Mountaineering Opportunities: Cirque Peak: Northwest Slope; Mount Langley: Southeast Slope; South Slope.
   
   
2. Take the right fork and follow it north of Cottonwood Lakes #1 and #2. Hike northwest past Lake #4 to a trail junction, turn west and ascend to Lake #5, and then follow the trail west to Army Pass, and the Crest Route.
   
   Mountaineering Opportunities: Mount Langley: Southeast Slope; South Slope.
   

“Diaz Pass”— From Lone Pine, follow the Whitney Portal Road 3+ miles, turn south on the Horseshoe Meadows Road, then, after 2+ miles, turn west on Granite View Drive. Diaz Creek parallels this road on its south side. Stop anywhere before the slope begins to steepen, and traverse south to Diaz Creek.
Follow Diaz Creek to the East Slope of Mount Langley, ascend, and meet the Crest Route on its summit.

Mountaineering Opportunities: Mount Langley: East Slope.

“Tuttle Pass”—From Lone Pine, follow the Whitney Portal Road 3+ miles to the Horseshoe Meadows Road, then turn south and travel 2+ miles to Granite View Drive. Turn west and follow Granite View Drive 2+ miles to a fork. Take the right fork and drive another 2+ miles to a parking area and the trailhead.
Hike up the road to the stone house, and then follow the course of Tuttle Creek to where it forks near the base of the East Ridge of Peak 4161 located between Mounts Langley and Corcoran, where two options appear.

Mountaineering Opportunities: Lone Pine Peak: Southeast Slopes.

1. Continue ascending east to the Crest Route at “Tuttle Pass,” the low point between Mounts Langley and Corcoran.
   
   Mountaineering Opportunities: Mount Langley: Northeast Chute, North Face; Mount Corcoran: North Notch; Mount LeConte: Traverse from Mount Corcoran.
   
   
2. Ascend northwest into the northernmost cirque in the next basin to the north and two further opportunities.
   
   
   1. Turn west and ascend the North Notch route to the notch between Mounts Corcoran and LeConte, and then descend a short distance to the Crest Route.
      
      Mountaineering Opportunities: Mount Corcoran: North Notch; Mount LeConte: Traverse from Mount Corcoran.
      
      
   2. Ascend north through “LeConte Pass,” the low point on the East Ridge of Mount LeConte, then continue the ascent northwest to the Crest Route on the summit of Mount Mallory.
      
      Mountaineering Opportunities: Mount LeConte: East Arête, Northwest Chute.
      

Mount Whitney Trail—To reach the Mount Whitney Trailhead, follow the Whitney Portal Road west from Lone Pine 11+ miles to its end at Whitney Portal. From this trailhead, two possibilities exist.

1. From the Whitney Portal Campground, follow the Meysan Lake Trail to Meysan Lake. Continue southwest past this lake and ascend to the Crest Route on the summit of Mount Mallory.
   
   Mountaineering Opportunities: Lone Pine Peak: Northwest Slope, Mount Irvine: East Chute.
   
   
2. Follow the Mount Whitney Trail to a point just before the second creek crossing, and two options.
   
   
3. Leave the Mount Whitney Trail and follow the use trail west on the north side of the North Fork of Big Pine Creek approximately ¼ mile to a large piece of granite. Take the left fork and cross the creek to its south side. Follow one of the several use trails until they come together just before the canyon narrows, and then cross the creek to its north side. Hike upstream approximately fifty yards to a section of broken rock on the north side of the canyon. Climb this broken rock to the “Ebersbacher Ledges.” Follow the use trail along the ledges, and then up the canyon to the point where a creek descends from the northwest. At this point, two further opportunities present themselves.
   
   
   1. Ascend this creek northwest into the next cirque to the north. At the head of this cirque, climb west to the Crest Route at “Cleaver Col,” the low point between Mount Carillon and “The Cleaver.”
      
      Mountaineering Opportunities: Mount Carillon: Northeast Ridge; “The Cleaver”: Northwest Ridge.
      
      
   2. Continue ascending the North Fork past Lower Boy Scout Lake, and then climb talus on the south side of the canyon above this lake to the terraces that are above and to the west of Clyde Meadow. Follow the North Fork west until it forks, where two more choices exist.
      
      Mountaineering Opportunities: Thor Peak: Northeast Slope.
      
      
      1. Follow the left fork southwest into its basin. Ascend northwest past Iceberg Lake and meet the Crest Route at “Whitney-Russell Pass.”
         
         Mountaineering Opportunities: Thor Peak: West Arête; Mount Whitney: Mountaineers Route, North Slope.
         
         
      2. Hike northwest up the right fork to Upper Boy Scout Lake, and then follow one of two further alternatives.
         
         
         1. Ascend northwest and meet the Crest Route at the “Rockwell Variation,” the highest chute located at the base of the Southeast Face of Mount Russell.
            
            
         2. Ascend north then northwest onto a plateau and meet the Crest Route at the summit of Mount Carillon.
            
            Mountaineering Opportunities: Mount Russell: East Ridge; Mount Carillon: South Slope.
            
            
4. Continue following the Mount Whitney Trail and join the Crest Route at Trail Crest.
   
   Mountaineering Opportunities: Thor Peak: Northeast Slope, Southwest Slope, West Arête (from Mirror Lake), Mount Irvine: North Slope, West Face; Wotans Throne: South Face; Discovery Pinnacle: South Slope; Mount Hitchcock: From “Discovery Pass.”

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